Sunday, June 14, 2009

Ann Q and Anna,

Goodbye and farewell from the Atlanta Airport. I was unable to catch you before you had to blow away on your close connecting airplanes. This felt incomplete yet totally understandable given the post-modern world. Peter and I love you and send you off with godspeed and see you on the path again soon.

Love,
the Huntsville Connection
Peregrinos y Peregrinas,

Hola que tal pilgrim? Kerry and Peter here in Huntsville remembering you all as the fondest and warmest of hearts, wondering how you are and if re-entry is blossoming slowly or rapido in your lives. What are you saying to people? Do you feel different from others? Is the quiet Camino living under the surface of your minds?

I did not dream my own dreams on this pilgrimage. I mentioned this to Michael, Ann Q, Zara and others and found it puzzling. I accepted it. The pilgrimage was personal to me, quite in fact but much of the pain I carried was curiously resolved the Wednesday before I walked. I told you all that I felt that this blessing came from Saint James/Santiago through God's graces, so that I might be free to be available without hindrance. And so it was for me. What also came with this blessed vacuum of pain, is that I dreamed others' dreams at night. I had not one pilgrim dream that was personal, instead I dreamed of mozarabic sequences, arabic points of light in geometric resonances, the golden mean, hebrew cadences sung in low tones and modern schemes too. My modern pilgrim dreams were the dreams of people I did not know, albergue dreams, anxieties I could not identify and peaces which permeated others' relations. I dreamed them all the same and was happy to let the dreamworld pass on through me without getting any of it stuck in my psyche or ribcage. I dreamed the dreams of the Sacred Other like some spiritual antenna parcing a Camino waveband. They blew past me like a rain-soaked wind, whipping around a corner and gone again.

And now peregrinos, since I have been home on my mountain in green, green Appalaichia; now I am dreaming my dreams of the Camino. Ha! Now I am dreaming dreams of Anna backing down and up again alongside Emma...over reservoir covered staircases in Portomarin, happily climbing up and down the stairs... up to their necks in water and backpacks, smiling and arriving at the top of the stairs to greet the rest of us watching peacefully on with Buen Camino! crossing their lips and lives, dreams of Davin dancing under a red hat with the fluidity of a cobra, and Michael alongside the path next to the young boy with no knee cap suddenly bestowing the Virgen de Milagro's blessing in one simple demonstrative wave of his hand in the boy's direction, a dream of Zara with her staff blossoming into a pear tree as she climbs the Monte de Gozo. These dreams I now dream peregrinos. I see in my dreams Becky pulling a great "jaws of life," out of her pack and cutting steel bars in half with one pinch and no sweat, I have seen Ellin sculpting Venus next to a holy spring, and Peter with a cascade of light sweeping down his back after an angel pours it liquid from heaven. In my dreams I have seen Ann Q planting a radiant garden with the roses of Gallego blooming for her in South Carolina and Nick with a quill kissed by Mastro Mateo penning a phrase. I have seen stardust in Celeste's eyes and pouring in and over her heart endlessly in a movement like Bach's Fifth. I have seen myself with the skin of a wolf on my back and a water gourd filled with Jordan's River at my side weeping for Jerusalem.

I send you these dreams, pilgrims so that you know you are in my heart forever. I send you these dreams because the Camino is living in us and really just beginning to form. I send you these dreams in gratitude to the Giver of Stars who lights the Milky Way and brings us home again.

Houston, we have re-entry!

My spirit is making its way back to the 21st century slowly and with care, my body, however, has been blasted back into everyday life.
Here are some of the disonances I'm experiencing:
  • People are rude to one another - the length of our walk, with the exception of one waiter who eventually showed his sunny side, people encouraged and helped each other. I was pretty horrified by the insolence of some young people to their parents in Madrid airport
  • Daily, we were greeted with Hola! Buen Camino! and an accompanying smile - now once again I'm invisible to passersby. People too wrapped up in their own lives to see anyone else, or care.
  • The world is a very noisy place - the wind and rain don't compete for space in the way a rock group in Philly airport was grabbing attention. People wanting distraction and afraid of the quiet and silence we absorbed in the lanes of Spain
  • I miss you all and your amazing gifts.
  • It's sunny in Minnesota - I'm grateful for the rays
I hope everyone else's re-entry is going well - I'm still dealing with the Camino Crud cough and have lost 5lbs which I'm going to eat back!

Be gentle with yourselves as you return. Zara

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Beatitudes of the Pilgrim

Blessed are you, pilgrim, if you find that the Camino opens your eyes to the unseen.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, if what concerns you most is not arriving, but arriving with others.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, when you contemplate the sights of the Camino and find them full of names and of new dawns.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, because you have discovered that the true Camino begins at its end.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, if your backpack empties of things as your heart doesn’t know how to fit so many emotions.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, if you discover that a step backwards to help another is more valuable that a hundred forward without awareness of those at your side.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, when you have no words to give thanks for all the wonders in every nook of the Camino.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, if you search for the truth and make of your Camino a life, and of your life a Camino, after Him who is the Way, the Truth and the life.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, if on the Camino you meet yourself and make yourself a gift of time without hurry, so that you may not neglect the image of your heart.

Blessed are you, pilgrim, if you find that the Camino is rich with silence and the silence is rich with prayer and the prayers are encounters with the Father that awaits you.

(Hospitalera of the refuge of pilgrims “los Padres Reparadores” from Puente Reina)

These Beatitudes are the heart of the Camino – each person I met I felt was a person I was meant to meet; every encounter was full of meaning. Our group went our separate ways on Friday, but we will forever be closely bonded by this most amazing of experiences. I miss you ALL already! Safe travels to those who are not yet home.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Reaching a destination

Not sure how deep this blog is going to be...all of us have sore feet and most have the camino crud (cold symptons or other ailments) but we made it to Santiago all in one piece in non-hurricane conditions (unlike Monday)...yea!

It was strange getting up this morning and not having to walk. I was actually disappointed. I have really enjoyed the walking regardless of how hard it was.

So we reached the destination that we had set out for ourselves but I question...have we really reached our destination? I would say for me no. It has been a great bonding experience and it has given us all a new perspective on life and memories forever. But have we reached the place we want to be? Will we take what we have learned and have the courage and fortitude to put it into action? Or will we fall back into the life we left behind. Already, I find myself thinking of home and picking back where I left off. Already, I find myself distancing myself from the camino. Already, I find myself putting up walls. Already, I find my courage and faith weakening.

Well we shall see won´t we...best wishes and thanks to my fellow pilgrims who are all tremendous people.

The End and the Beginning

Warm greetings from rainy Santiago de Compostela!

We have arrived.

After the wind and drenching rain on Monday, most of us were dreading the hike to Santiago yesterday. But somehow the rain decided to hold off the entire morning, and brief bursts of sunshine welcomed us along the way into the cathedral city. Many of us stopped at Lavacolla for an ancient purification ritual (most Christians did not bathe along the route and cleansed themselves there before reaching Santiago), and it was a wonderful time to approach the world anew, with clean hearts and spirits.

Shortly thereafter was the ascent of Monte de Gozo, or the Mountain of Joy, the last big hill before reaching Santiago. From the top, we could see the cathedral city in the distance, and making it to this hilltop was a moment of great accomplishment for several of us. Peter and Celeste even carried two backpacks for part of the way, to help ease the burden for others. The walk through Santiago to reach our hotel was fatiguing, and I think we all collapsed upon arrival.

This morning we obtained our Compostelanas from the pilgrim office, documents that certify that we have made the long and challenging journey to this holy city. We then attended a Mass for pilgrims, and at the start of the Mass the presiding priest read aloud the nationality of each pilgrim who had arrived in the past day. The UK, Germany, France, Italy, Portugal, the U.S., Colombia, Brazil, Argentina. . . there were pilgrims from all across the world. And we all had just experienced one common, incredible journey.

One point that the priest made in his homily was that our Camino is really just beginning. ¨La vida es un camino,¨ he said. Our role now is to live our lives and meet our duties with the same joyful enthusiasm that we have discovered on the pilgrimage route. This evening our group is gathering to debrief on our experiences one last time. . . and then we'll be directing our compass toward home, preparing to share what we have learned with our friends, families, and communities.

Peace and love,

Michael

Monday, June 8, 2009

As the journey closes

This morning we have not yet set out from our albergue in Arco de Pino. Packs are still being assembled and we are in the process of gathering in the lobby to head out to a cafe across the street to breakfast in the early morning hours.

From there we proceed to our destination: Santiago. As you all have gathered by now, yesterday was very discouraging. And yet we are all wanting to undertake the final leg of the journey today... very much so. Think about us, pray for us, whatever you feel comfortable doing, for strength and fortitude and good spirits.

It is a wonderful beginning each day together, even as along the camino we fall into separate rhythms. It is also wonderful to end the day together, and this has been a great gift of the pilgrimage.

I am expecting more wonderful things to come both today as we walk and upon our arrival in Santiago.
The rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain, except when it doesn´t! Today was one of those days! Sheeting, drenching rain, and howling wind (yes, actually howling through the trees - no poetic license). The streams ran down the paths into lakes at the bottom. My poncho ripped and
acted like a sail, Michael´s post was way too restrained - it was the walk from hell!
However, when we got to Arco, 3 Guardian Angels who had not been able to walk because of blisters and assorted ailments had arranged for our albergue, bought goodies for us all and welcomed us with kindness.
Now I´m going to wash out my ´waterproof´boots and get the pebbles out of them and if I´m lucky do some laundry. Not sure yet whether I´ll have the stamina to repeat today´s experience tomorrow. However, I appreciate all those who have no choice about living in the wet and carrying their loads, and have no one to welcome them at the end of the day with a warm bed. Thanks for that.
Zara

Buen freakin' camino.

This morning we were just two days away from Santiago, but Mother Nature dealt us quite a blow. As we walked, the winds picked up and the heavens opened, creating mud puddles and little streams all along the path. Our ponchos were no match for the wind, and most of us ended up soaked. It became hard to discern where the right turns were, and it seems like our group took two different paths. When I arrived at Arca de Pino, I could even pour water out of my boots.

Becky, Emma, and Nick had arrived earlier this morning, and they found us a wonderful, comfortable albergue. After a long hike, their thoughtfulness made the gloomy day brighter: they prepared popcorn, cookies, drinks, and even balloons for us on our bunks. (Can't forget the Happy Hippo hazelnut cookies, either. . .!) It's wonderful to have a family away from home.

Here's the website of our albergue: http://portadesantiago.com/

I tried to smile along the way and greet everyone with the traditional ¨Buen Camino,¨ but it was a bit more challenging today. Still, the rain served a meaningful purpose today. Not only was it an additional challenge to face, but it was a wonderful ¨rinse cycle¨after being washed clean over the previous week. This journey has a wonderful cleansing value, and Mother Nature just didn't want us to forget it.

Tomorrow is our last day of hiking to Santiago. In some ways, I'm not concerned so much with what we find there. It is this journey on our feet that has made the trip.

Soggy but smiling from Arca,

Michael

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Greetings from Celeste Holt

this is a post from CELESTE HOLT. There are no words to describe the beauty we have encountered on our journey. Even in the pouring rain ,for now 3 days, we are finding signs along our way of God´s goodness and providence. This is not an experience for the faint of heart, soul or body. Tonight, we gathered as a group and focused on our individual experiences. One truth today was this, the difference BETWEEN A PILGRIM AND A TOURIST IS INTENTION. Our indiviual intentions on this journey are respected by one another and we have remarkably worked to give one another space when needed and an listening ear when needed. We are 12 PILGRIMS who are yoked by the common experience of blistered feet, perpetually wet clothes, weak SPANISH,EXCEPT OF COURSE BRILLIANT AND HELPFUL (MICHAEL) and hearts of contemplation for what this experience will mean to our lives. having a pack on our backs, a staff in our hands, a poncho and a bandana have quickly become a part of all our psyches. if in us we are sure we would be regarded with at least peculation and maybe even suspicion, HERE, WE ARE FELLOW TRAVELERS AND HAPPY TO SAY HELLO TO ALL WHO ARE PASSING ON OUR JOURNEY. WHEN WE HAVE JUST THOUGHT WE HAVE LOST OUR WAY, A FARMER, A VOICE FROM A WINDOW, OR A YELLOW WILL APPEAR. WHEN WE ARE STRESSED ABOUT NOT HAVING AN ESSENTIAL IT IS PROVIDED FOR US. I FEEL GOD REFUSES TO LET ANY WORRY ABOUT A PHYSICAL NECISSITY INTERRUPT OUR THOUGHTS OF HIS GRACE. I HAVE FELT HIS GRACE, UNDESERVED FAVOR AND AM HOPEFUL IT WILL NOT BE A MOUNTAIN TOP EXPERIENCE BUT A STEADY REALITY IN MY LIFE FROM THI STIME FORWARD. today emma and i spent about 2 hours at a small cafe on the camino. the rain would not quit so we just kept ordering caliente tea con leche, hot tea with milk, and we talked with the proprietor, carmen, and just relaxed in a way that is impossible in our hurried lives. i will always remember this calm and lovely rainy sunday on the camino...

Please excuse the many mechanical and spelling errors in my post! This computer is very different from my ibook! cholt

The Burden is Light

The last several days have been quietly epic. Today we have arrived in Arzúa, on our fifth day of backpacking through the Galician countryside. Although we are a large group, our individual rhythms on the Camino have ebbed and flowed. . . sometimes we travel in groups of two or three, and at other times we are alone.

On Friday we hiked the longest stretch of our journey, and I spent most of my time alone. . . for the first time this week. My mind was abuzz with ideas and stresses from home, but after about an hour of walking the thoughts faded away. As I walked alongside an open, grassy field, I was suddenly hit with a joyful sense of freedom. My perspective zoomed out for a moment, and I saw myself, a tiny point of light, in a wide world of open possibilities. It had been a long time since I last felt this levity of heart and spirit. At the outset of the trip, Kerry gave us some ex votos -- or symbolic, prayerful offerings -- to leave along the route at meaningful places, and I set down a tiny white dove on a rock, just as a ray of sunshine broke through the clouds of the misty day.

Free will is such a wonderful gift. Many people of faith attribute sin and evil to our free will, but not enough people dwell on how free will opens the door to true, supreme love and goodness.

The Camino has lightened my burden in other senses. While in Sarria, we all picked up stones, as it was a medieval tradition for pilgrims to pick up a piece of limestone to carry to a city between Melide and Arzúa to be made into cement. The practicality of this tradition no longer exists, but it became a vehicle for finding freedom. As I walked during the four days to Arzúa, I placed all of my guilt and shame I carried on the small rock in my pocket. These emotions had been stirring within me for several reasons, and I moved them from my own self to the rock I carried. Today, as I crossed a bridge leading into Arzúa, I stopped for a while. . . and threw the rock into the river as far and hard as I could. The rock made a surprisingly loud and forceful splash, which confirmed to me that the heavy burdens I carry are indeed being left behind on the Camino.

My backpack may weigh nearly thirty pounds, but it feels lighter and lighter each day. As I was walking through the woods with Kerry yesterday, we saw a young man hiking through the stones and mud with a walking stick. Every so often he turned to the side and hobbled his way down the path, using his stick for support. Even with his visible impediment, he was making the long and difficult journey to Santiago. These days we could make the pilgrimage in a car or on a train. We can get to Santiago virtually, in the blink of an eye. But it is the journey of patience and quiet persistence that eases our burdens and strengthens our spirits. Seeing the young man travel alone was a deep inspiration, and reminded me that we are capable of much more than we think we are. . . if only we let our spirit and selfhood shine through.

Love from Arzúa,
Michael

Lost and Found

We have now been 5 days on foot, and over these many miles we have all had time to reflect and get lost in thought, which I find to be a great gift! While at home my mind is seemingly always preoccupied with so many things, here my body is preoccupied, and my mind is completely open. For the first time I can remember, I can only concentrate on the present, and am not planning the next day, or the next week, etc. The twelve of us have lost many things along the way, some purposefully, others unintentionally. Clothing, personal items deemed too heavy or trivial to carry, shells, among other items. We have also lost our fear and anxiety over the physical and personal aspects of this journey. Some of us have lost sleep, and others our sense of time. What have we found? Strength, determination, and courage to continue. Creative ways to tolerate our pain, and accept help when needed. We have found our way, thanks to the many yellow painted arrows on trees, fence posts, buildings, ground. We have found profound admiration for the world in which we live; amazement in the diversity of not just the flora and fauna and animals we pass by each day, but for the people who have traveled here from all over the world sharing our journey, enhancing our journey. Perhaps most importantly, we have found appreciation for our companions: new friends, old friends. Once strangers, we are forever bonded by our experiences and our deep compassion and understanding for one another.

The following are not my original thoughts, but of those who have traveled this road before us.

¨The difference between a pilgrim and a tourist is the intention of attention, the quality of the curiosity.¨
¨In sacred travel, every experience is uncanny. No encounter is without meaning. There are signs everywhere, if only we learn how to read them.¨

Two more days to Compostella! Buen Camino!!!!

The Lesson of the Eucaliptus Tree

Last night, Zara shared with me that we would be seeing a lot of Eucaliptus trees during this portion of the camino. These trees are very invasive and require a tremendous amount of water. I took in this information but promptly stored it in a file in my mind. Today, when we started hiking, I saw two trees...very large...striking...I even smelled a distinctive odor as I passed below them...but had no clue what the trees were...I pondered it for a while and made a mental note to ask someone the identification of the trees. As,I hiked in intentional silence, I spent the first portion of the hike on inner self reflection, but later I chose to pray for my fellow pilgrims. I took each person individually and thanked God for them and their many wonderful qualities and asked him to watch over them and to bless them. When I came to Zara, it immediately occured to me that the trees that I was seeing and wanting to understand were Eucaliptus trees. For me this was a lesson,when we focus on ourselves we have a difficult time with the meaning of life but if we focus on others, our way will be made clear and we will have greater understanding.
This is Ann, again, posting under Anna´s blog, because I can´t log on myself. While walking the camino intentionally in silence today, I found my heart singing even as my body was screaming, "Stop!" I have developed a sinus infection and accompanying cough, so the last two days have not been easy. Today was complicated by the fact that the clothes I washed yesterday did not get dry, so I think I had an extra 3-4 pounds in my backpack -- and that was after leaving a wet Furman t-shirt behind! My walking stick is my friend, and the 23rd Psalm played over and over in my head: Thy rod and Thy staff comfort me. While walking alone in a light rain through an unbelievably green forest, a horse came to greet me out of nowhere. I had an apple somewhere in my pack and put down my stick to try to get it for the horse. However, I couldn´t reach it without taking off the backpack, and that was not an option. The horse let me look for a couple of minutes and then bent down his head, retrieved the stick from the ground, and held it out to me. At least, that´s what seemed to happen. Maybe he just wanted to eat it, but I don´t think so! I am grateful for the surprises of each day. Last night we were regaled in song by four señors as we were eating supper, and we then sang "Brown Eyes" and "You Are My Sunshine" to them. The last one brought tears to the eyes of one of the older men and he asked for it again. I guess they just don´t get the "Brown Eyes" thing! Another surprise of today is that I found a Spanish "dime" and "penny" outside the small Catholic Church in Melide. God is trying to tell me something about money (security)! I placed both coins on the altar with a prayer before our St. Francis morning ritual. Kerry and Zara have given us something special to think about as we begin each day. What a tender, compassionate team they are! And what a wonderful family we all are. Thanks be to God! Ann Quattlebaum

Step by Step, in so many ways

Hello to all,
We´ve finished another incredible day on the Camino. Celeste and I discussed how irrational and illogical our days are. In what other instance would we willingly put on dirty socks, wet shoes, a 20 pound pack, and walk out into the rain? Yet having a group that is so supportive and compassionate makes the decision to walk another day easy and natural.

I´d like to describe an incident that happened just this past hour. The twelve of us sat down for an early dinner at a restaurant, where the waiter spoke no English, and gruffly told us that if we ate off each other´s plate, we´d be charged twice the price. However, with Michael´s excellent translations, and our willingness to eat what was put in front of us, in an hour the waiter was smiling and showing off his 2 month old son to us. Kerry played with his beautiful brown-eyed daughter, and complimented him on his children. By the end of the meal, he asked us to come back for breakfast, and gave us all a hefty discount. It´s a profound lesson that attitudes about Americans will be changed slowly and surely, dinner by dinner. I´m again so proud of our group- not only are we representatives of Furman, but of America.

Two more days until we reach Santiago- we are all feeling the pull of our destination. We´ll see what happens when we get there. Love to all, Emma

Friday, June 5, 2009

A really hard day

Hi all
Be proud of your Furman graduates - today was pretty brutal, about 15 miles mostly uphill (or that´s how it felt). There´s no easy route to the Field of Stars for us. One pilgrim had severe foot problems and took a taxi, another took of her boots and walked in sandals because of blisters. That is no easy feat (feet) - requires a whole new set of muscles. She was slopping around in the puddles and rain, but made it to the end.
We started at the fortress church of Porto Marin constructed by the Order of St. James for the protection of the Christians and eradication of the Muslims. We prayed and read from the Qu´uran, the Talmud and the Bible for the blessings of peace and that we may be peace makers. Then we walked to Palas do Rei and are now resting our aching muscles and doing laundry.
Zara

Thursday, June 4, 2009

The Work and the Joy

The work of the camino is not to walk many miles with a heavy pack but it is to put one foot in front of the other providing and receiving acceptance and forgiveness, laughter and tears, and thoughts and ideas. The joy of the camino is sharing the burdens and the love of the group with which one walks.

It is easy to read in Spain the words or Matthew 6:19-34...."Don't store up treasures here on earth, where moths eat them and rust distroys them, and where thieves break in and steal. Wherever your treasure is there the desires of your heart will be. Your eye is a lamp that provides light for your body. When your eye is good, your whole body is filled with light. But when your eye is bad, your whole body is filled with darkness. And if the light you think you have is actually darkness, how deep that darkness is. No one can serve two masters. For you will hate one and love the other; you will be devoted to one and despise the other. You cannot serve both God and money...."

Much harder to return home and to put those actual word into action.

May God continue to bless the walkers of the Camino and those who remain at home in the fields.

2 Days on the Path, posted by Rev Kerry Holder Joffrion-Peregrina

Two days on the Path I have come, covering 2,000 plus years of history, peeling the onion layer by layer. I am not under the delusion that I will peel to the bulbous center. I only hope that I will arrive in Compostela with punctuated questions. I also hope I will sing songs, strange heart-warming renditions of a rare and peculiar journey. This pilgrimage I make will perhaps become a ¨ we´, perhaps will elicit soulful freedoms, perhaps will provide the privilege of comforting some Sacred Other and then lead me home to my ancient yet new self. I do it because it calls me, because it is there, because Furman taught me if anything to never settle with a life unlived.

And so we go seeking after some old bones, praying in the sore places of our bodies after a long days walk.

It makes me smile to help facilitate this pilgrimage.

Less in More

We are continuing to experience the wonderous beauty of northern Spain, as Michael is describing so well. Despite our discomforts, we are enjoying the community of peregrinos from all over the world. As we pass on the Road, whether on bike or foot, we greet one another the same; ¨Buen Camino!¨ Sometimes we realize we are attempting to speak Spanish to other Americans, or Germans, or Canadians, yet nationalities are impossible to distinguish until we hear their voices. I am amazed at how similar we all are in this experience. We continue to rid ourselves of items from home now deemed too heavy, and unnecessary. Less is more, it is very clear. We help each other along the Way, and are learning to accept that help with open arms. And, we are having a great time. It is obvious to all we are making friends for life as we share this most spectacular experience.

What were we thinking?

Since the past few posts have been so elequent and full of beautiful depth of thought, I decided to go against the flow and be completely blunt and slightly shallow. OUCH. more OUCH. "Oh, we´ve only gone seven miles, and we need to walk seven more?" lots more OUCH. We´ve just completed our second day of walking, and most of us are more exhausted and sore than we ever have been in our lives. Some have compared this walk to labor and childbirth!

However, it is difficult to describe the admiration and pride I have for our group. After only three full days, we are a supportive, close-knit community with a deep concern for each other´s well-being. What else is so amazing is that we are all so different. We hail from 10 states, and two countries, we have about a 40 year age range, and our professions vary from lawyers to doctors to priests. Yet what we all have in common is a determination to walk this Camino. We are hiking through a green and misty countryside, and are constantly amazed at the views, both large and small. We´ve come across several breath-taking scenery, but we are also awed by small signs of devotion, such as purposefully placed stones by a wooden cross.

I could go on and on, but instead I´m going to enjoy the evening sun across the Mino river from the bench by our hostel. Love to all, and buon camino!

Ouch.

The lactic acid has built up in my shoulders in back, and it feels so great to sit down. Today we backpacked about 14 miles from Sarria to Portomarín, trekking through verdant pastureland all the way through. The Camino winds through neighborhoods and longside farms -- so it is intimately connected to the community here. We know where we're going because small yellow painted arrows mark each intersection and point the way to Santiago. As they sometimes require a good eye to find, these markers are very gentle signs of the right direction. There's a mystical quality to them that I'm starting to appreciate.

This morning we anointed each other's eyes and ears with holy oil that Kerry brought with her. We blessed each other's eyes so that we may perceive the gifts along the way. We blessed each other's ears so that we may listen carefully. . . to each other, to the world around us, and most importantly to our own hearts.

At the outset of our walking, I pondered a poem with Anna and Celeste. It was a gift from Ann, written by John O'Donohue, and reflects some of the spirit of this pilgrimage:

A journey can become a sacred thing:
Make sure, before you go,
To take the time
To bless your going forth,
To free your heart of ballast
So that the compass of your soul
Might direct you toward
The territories of spirit
Where you'll discover
More of hidden life,
And the urgencies
That deserve to claim you.

Along the route, we have met so many pilgrims from different parts of the world: from the UK, Germany, Canada, France, Spain, the U.S.A., and other nations that I'm too exhausted to recall right now. We all have the common goal of reaching Santiago, as well as the more far-reaching goal of learning about ourselves during this journey. With each stretch of the journey, I feel like we are shedding. We are shedding those extra pieces of clothing and those books that weigh down our backpacks, and we are shedding the weight of the world that weighs down our Selves. And we become more and more like the other pilgrims around us.

Today Celeste and I stopped to talk with a man working in his garden. He used to work as a post officer in Galicia, but now enjoys life in the home that he grew up in. We greeted each other with such genuine peace and good spirits, although we were perfect strangers. He asked about us and our group, and then he asked about President Obama. This man in the Galician countryside, a land dominated by cows and sheep and tractors, is aware of our politics. And how do our politics affect people like Eduardo in Galicia? Have we even stopped to think about that?

It is time to debrief with each other and rest before our big day tomorrow. We have blistered feet and aching backs, but are ready to take on the longest and most difficult day of our journey. Plus, it looks like it will be raining for the next few days. Each day brings with it an added challenge, and we are ready. Not as rested as we'd like to be, but we are ready.

June 4th ?

I´ve lost track of time and dates - that´s a good thing.

D-e-c-e-l-e-r-a-t-i-o-n
From plane to train, from bus to foot
Appreciating the space and grace of this time.

Simplification
Our only tasks are to find shelter for the night, carry only what we need and find food. The weight of my pack already tells me that I´m carrying more than I absolutely need. We are shedding the detritus of our acquisitive life styles along the trail, leaving things behind. We are becoming lighter.

Feel very lucky to be with this amazing group of Furman alumns and to share their journey.

Zara

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

What a day! After a bus ride from Leon to Samos, we stepped out at a beautiful monastery. In our awe, and under the weight of our packs, one of my fellow pilgrims lost her footing and fell! After a 3.5 hour hike through beautiful countryside, with the cows, ducks, goats, horse, sheep and glorious wildflowers, her ankle is unfortunately very swollen. Luckily, frozen peas are sold in Spain, and those combined with vino have been a comfort! We are all exhausted but happy, and relieved to have one day under our packs. Wonderful memories, too numerous to list, have already been made. Thanks to all of you who are thinking of us as we journey on.

On the Camino!

Greetings, all!

I am writing from a hostel -- or albergue -- in Sarria, Spain. Our group just enjoyed a tasty pilgrims´ supper and are resting our feet after our first day of walking. Our journey began in the sweltering bustle of Madrid, and several of us were oriented to the area via a bus tour. The first experience along the pilgrimage route was really yesterday: in the morning, we took a train to León, the capital of northwest Spain and a key city along the Camino (or Path) to Santiago. While there, we met a gentleman from Germany who had been traveling the route for six weeks. . . whereas we have only about seven days of trekking in our journey.

One question that has arisen in our group is, ´´Why are we on this journey?´´ First and foremost, we each have our own questions to ponder, and it has been wonderful to think about these questions in sacred places where the curtain between heaven and earth is just a bit thinner. One of my nicknames on this trip is solar, as I am interested in solar energy. We have passed hills lined with photovoltaics and capped with wind turbines along the way. Yet while the sun and wind can power our homes and businesses, what powers us? Where do we find the tenacity to power through our challenges?

The word camino is an interesting one that has resonated throughout this trip. I noticed while in Galicia today that the word camiño is used on the signposts. . . a slight regional variation of the word. My grandmother´s heritage is in this region of Spain, and in a whoa moment I remembered that her family name is Camiña. I feel very comfortable and strangely at home around here, perhaps because deep down inside I am connected to this very green area of Spain. My grandmother´s favorite song is ¨Camino Verde,¨and this has been a true camino verde.

We could also be called on this pilgrimage for the sake of others. The strength we find on this journey may be needed by our family, our friends, or even complete strangers. While on the train to León, several of us sat near a kind woman named -- believe it or not -- María Camino. Her husband worked for a while near Huntsville, Alabama, where two members of our pilgrimage group are from. María excitedly called up her husband so that we could speak with him, and he asked us to cheer her up. . . because her sister, Lola, had just died the previous night. The beautiful thing is that María was already laughing and cheerful, enjoying the happenstance of our encounter. We were happy to be there for María in a way we could have never planned, and her presence in our travels emphasized the added level of meaning that pilgrimages can have.

Those are my nuggets for today. Hopefully you´ll hear soon about shells and yellow arrows, coins of prayer and reconciliation, and bags of green peas for sore feet. So many meaningful adventures already, and we´ve only just begun.

Monday, June 1, 2009

We´re all here!

For all those who are closely following our footsteps, all of the group is here. I think I am the last to arrive, but as far as I know, we are all in one piece, most of us jetlagged, but excited to be in Sunny Spain! More to come soon...

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Why walk?

Greetings to my fellow pilgrims-- all of whom I will meet very soon-- and also to those supporting us in Internetland with thoughts and prayers!

All of us undertaking this trek through northern Spain have been fortunate enough to receive a booklet of daily prayers and meditations (I believe from our illustrious tour guide) as spiritual "food" for each day of this upcoming journey.

I had better confess from the get-go that I have "cheated"-- that is, I have gone ahead and read the first meditation, which is for tomorrow (May 31), the first day of the journey, when we will be embarking across the Atlantic. Yet, I am glad that I have read this first chapter, for it includes a question I am still turning over in my mind. It asks, "Why did I say 'Yes' to this pilgrimage?"

I don't know fully why. It's a mystery. What I can recall is the point I was in my own journey when I first received the invitation to join this very special trip. At that time, back in the early months of 2009, I had just returned from a 4-month tour overseas in a rural Ugandan village with the Peace Corps. I had been "called back" to the United States from that tour much sooner than I had expected-- needless to say, I had been determined to finish all 27 months of the "normal" span of a Volunteer-- but God had something else to say.

Back in those early months, I found my self face-to-face with the not so pleasant range of human emotions: disappointment, fear, grief, and even bitterness. Feeling adrift and often alone, terrified of what the next steps would be or wouldn't be, and wondering if God would abandon me to a fate of a life of isolation and purposelessness, the invitation to join on a pilgrimage to a shrine almost a thousand years old (The Shrine of St. James at Compostela-- which I had written a paper on my senior year at Furman but can't recall very much of now) stood like an exclamation point amidst question marks. This exclamation point was a call to faith, and a summons of courage and level-headedness to move out of darkness and into light, on the path that God would reveal.

So, at that very point when I first heard of the pilgrimage to Spain, I had actually begun a pilgrimage to the selfhood God has held for me since the beginning. Though, at the time, it did not feel like a pilgrimage at all-- more like stumbling, faltering steps to the person I had always been but had forgotten.

This pilgrimage did not occur in a vacuum. Parker Palmer writes, "There is no selfhood outside of relationship". The relationships I have experienced in those early months and beyond helped lead me outside of the doubts I constructed for myself and to a life lived with "power, love and a sound mind"as the Apostle Paul describes.

Now, outside of those early months, in a very different place in life, I am undertaking this pilgrimage to Spain out of gratitude for where I have already been lead. When I agreed to go to Spain, simply saying "Yes" was extremely difficult because I was afraid. I had to admit I could not anticipate the future and yet believe that the goodness of God would transcend what appeared impossible.

In my case, saying "Yes" was born out of a desire and a call from God to community, wherein our gifts are shared. Saying "Yes" was to affirm that God has acted and would continue to act with power. We are not called to be alone, and our tasks can transcend what is seen if we simply allow God into these very sensitive areas in our lives.

I want to close with a meditation from the Taize tradition:

"Ubi caritas et amor, Deus ibi est"

Where there is love and charity, there God is.

On the threshold. . .

Saludos!

I'm Michael Vagnini, a 2007 Furman graduate and an eager member of this pilgrimage group. The reality of beginning this journey of reflection and growth is just setting in.

This will be my second adventure in faith with the Lilly Center: back in 2005, I had the privilege to travel through Cuba with several of my peers and professors. On that journey, I found that the bonds of brotherhood extend far beyond our families and our friends, and that we each have a responsibility to work for peace and justice in our communities and beyond. My mind turned toward this mission, and for the last two years I have been working in a chemistry lab, studying fundamental elements of using and storing solar energy. My time in Cuba helped me become outward-focused. How could I use my own talents and enthusiasm to serve a greater cause?

In many ways, this pilgrimage may complement my trip to Cuba. I imagine that this journey will be a journey inward. From where do I derive the strength to sustain my enthusiasm, to fuel the use of my talents? This trek is a timely one: I have spent the last several months preparing for my candidacy exam, walking among skyscrapers, and facing the complexity of new relationships. It's a good time to simplify the road and remember who I am and what I'm all about.

I can't wait to meet my fellow pilgrims and to hear their stories. And I'm sure that the next two weeks contain a wonderful story, waiting to unfold.

Paz y amor,
Michael

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Joining the group!

Like Emma, I'm feeling 'flutters.' I'm not a Furman alumna and most of the pilgrims are cyber friends at the moment. That will change soon!
I'm very honored to have been asked to be a guide and companion on this great Camino walk for Furman. It really started for me in deepest winter when people said "Yes" with their check books and sent in the deposit. Then I knew I had to get ready and begin the walk to Santiago in my heart and with my body. So, I started off in the snow and ice of Minnesota (when the weather was really ugly, I went to the gym). Now it's early summer, full of the promise and light. Already I've come a long way.  I'm trying to let go of apprehensions, expectations and assumptions and just be present for the group, but every so often, I remember the hills and think, can I really climb them again?
Yes!  Ultreya!

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Buon Camino! This is the traditional greeting between pilgrims on the Santiago de Compostela path. (loosely translated: happy trails to you!) I am very excited to be able to share our experiences of the pilgrimage with Furman students, alumni and friends. I hope that this journal allows you to understand a bit more about the motivations and benefits that a pilgrimage can provide- I'll be learning those right along with you!

This is a pre-trip post. Our group will be leaving from airports across the country on May 31 to meet in Madrid on the first of June. However, the pilgrimage has already started. I think the journey started when last November, Ann Quattlebaum turned in her office chair, looked at me and said, "What do you think about the possibility of...?" It got a bit more real when I wrote that first deposit check, and finally became a blunt reality when I took that first physical step of our training schedule. Now I am feeling the flutters of nervousness- what if I can't fit everything I need into a backpack? What if I can't walk 10 miles each day? Will I open enough to the experience that I can be changed? We shall see...